Diff'rent Strokers

[walter]

After removing the bodywork, fuel tank and a few bits and pieces several weeks ago, I finally got round to the real strip down. Its amazing what you find. At some point in its life this Mk4 has been partially stripped and rebuilt by a monkey on acid. I've had my moments though, just about destroyed one of the thermostat cover screw heads, decided to leave it until the cylinder head is off. The left hand expansion chamber contained about 500 ml of oil, spark plugs are the wrong type, no air filter, carbs so loose they almost came straight off. The bottom radiator bolts were an absolute sod to get off. Found a red wire under the clocks not connected to anything. This one has a different wiring loom to the uk spec, one of the differences is that it has a sidestand switch, just before the switch there's another wire that disappears under the engine, haven't figured that one out yet. Hope to have the engine out by the end of the week. One thing I've realised already is that this is going to take a lot longer than I thought.

[Craigside_Pete]

I don't think we got the Mk4 in UK so any differences in wiring to Mk3's may be model [rather than market] specific.

The red wire under the speedo is probably the 80 kph warning light [JDM mandatory fitment] and might have already been disconnected by a previous UK owner [you should have a dormant idiot light, with some Japanese writing by it, somewhere!]- on Mk1's & 2's this is its own little sub loom you can just remove.

good luck!

[walter]

Thanks for the red wire answer Pete, I'd never have sussed that one out. I have an RG250FH Mk 3 setup manual and it has a couple of harness routing diagrams, one says only for Canada. This is the one that shows the sidestand switch and cable tied CDI unit (not bolted next to the regulator). The other diagram, presumably covering the UK has no sidestand switch and the CDI unit in the right place. Other differences spotted so far are different coil and indicator relay. The CDI has different plugs to the UK one so it is not interchangeable. I'm tempted to change the whole lot over to UK spec, just in case anything goes in the future, however, its all working perfectly at the moment.

[walter]

Got the carbs out...eventually, I moved the airbox back as far as it would go but still had to resort to a little brute force. Airbox connectors and carb rubbers are shot, luckily I have new ones. I also have another set of carbs picked up on ebay, the plan is to use the best bits from all 4. Out of the 4 carbs I only have 3 original carb top screws, how fitting that the most likely screw to go missing is the one Suzuki no longer supply.
I have read a lot about removing the float pins and the dangers of using a hammer, however, after trying other methods I was reduced to driving them out with a small hex head screwdriver and hammer, it worked surprisingly well, and I still have 4 unbroken carbs. Can't get the screws out that hold the needle valve in, waiting for the impact screwdriver to be delivered.
Next steps, remove engine, shock and cushion lever.

[Crofty]

I neally shat me pants at the prospect of getting the float pins out, the supports look really frail......left em in and worked around them as best as I could....all the bearings bushes and seals for the rear shock link set me back about £100!!! All the best.....

_________________
Breathing new life into an old Gamma!

http://www.rg250.co.uk

[walter]

The bike is now almost completely stripped down, its going to be rebuilt as a Mk3. Its going to be used, how much depends on the weather, and as Mk4 parts are so hard to get, I thought it wasn't worth the risk. I also found more differences as I stripped it down, different stator connection, different drive shaft.
The engine came out quite easily, didn't have to use too much force on the mounting bolts, and its not as heavy as I thought. Its gone to New Era Restorations for assessment and overhaul. Its already got 0.5 mm oversize pistons, everything else is within tolerance, I think all they are going to do is replace the outer crank bearings and seals, might ask them to hone the bores as well. The pistons look ok, but I managed to get new Suzuki ones for £15 each. My Mk3 wheels are going to a specialist restorer in Halifax, who also does body work repairs, so he can fix the cracked fairings as well. I've got new Mk3 fork internals, the forks will go to a local dealer I know and trust. The rest I will do myself (as well as the engine top end rebuild). I've even got an ultrasonic cleaner for the carbs and any other bits that will fit in it. The plan is to have it on the road by March/April. Once repaired the silver Mk3 WW bodywork will be usable, most of the paintwork is ok, a few of the graphics are faded. I'll see how it looks then decide if it needs a respray. If I can figure out how to add pictures, I'll add some.

[Bitacticus]

Hello walter,

Good to hear that its going the way it should.

I just picked up my coated brake calipers.
If your pistons are badly pitted there is a rebuild set from Suzuki for the calipers.
all the seals and the 4 pistons for 1 caliper (59100-04821)

Maybe you can get them in the UK.

Any news on the spacer and the bracket?

Thanks

Erik

[Bitacticus]

Goodevening Walter,

did you find the time to get the rear wheel out?
Would like to buy the spacer and the caliper bracket if its still possible.

Please let me know

Regards Erik