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Classic Bike Trackdays

5 weeks into my AR125 project
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The Cameraman



Joined: 22 Aug 2015
Posts: 608
Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2016 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Guys n Gals,

I wonder if any of our crew have had the fuel sender unit leak from the same area?

Both the part that came off my replacement tank and the second one, bought from E-bay, leak at the very same spot. I've tried using the original and new seals bit to no avail. There's a small orange coloured square plastic block that sits on the outer surface of the sender and you can see the fuel leaking out from where it joins with the alloy section.

Just awaiting a return response from the E-bay seller.
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Reggie
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Top-shaggy
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Joined: 05 Mar 2011
Posts: 1678
Location: Derbyshire

PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2016 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had lots of trouble with oil sensors leaking up the wiring and tachometer drives doing the same up the cable off the oil pump but not the petrol sensor. . . Sounds more like bad luck. With all my AR'S thats another part to keep in the spares box then XD

Can it be sealed with silicon from the top and with superglue between the alloy and orange plastic?
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The Cameraman



Joined: 22 Aug 2015
Posts: 608
Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2016 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Shaun,

I wasn't sure if the superglue would work with it involving petrol?

We'll see how we go with the return of the part first.

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Reggie
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2016 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Totally agree Reggie

I was thinking how woukd I approach it .. probably gorilla glue seeping into the gap between the plastic and alloy then silicon over in tank area.

Not sure if it would hold, but I wouldn't be able to resist giving it a go Smile
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The Cameraman



Joined: 22 Aug 2015
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Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2016 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Shaun,

the unit's going back to the seller, so I may try some yacum on the original!
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andy
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Joined: 07 Nov 2014
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Silicone will not hold petrol,chemical metal will.
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The Cameraman



Joined: 22 Aug 2015
Posts: 608
Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2016 6:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

andy wrote:
Silicone will not hold petrol,chemical metal will.


Hi Andy,

thanks for that, to be honest t's what I expected.
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The Cameraman



Joined: 22 Aug 2015
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Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2016 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Guys n Gals,

well that's another 80 spent on ordering a new fuel sensor.

Can't wait to get back on track.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2016 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Cameraman wrote:
Hi Guys n Gals,

well that's another 80 spent on ordering a new fuel sensor.

Can't wait to get back on track.


OUCH !!

Just looked up and your right...cheapest I can find is 70 plus post (if not picked up - cradleys)

Looking forward to seeing the little smoker coming back to life Thumbs Up
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The Cameraman



Joined: 22 Aug 2015
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 6:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Shaun,

yep that's exactly whom I placed my order with and I was glad to find several suppliers had them in stock!
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The Cameraman



Joined: 22 Aug 2015
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Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Guys n Gals,

Cradley Kawasaki to the rescue again, part received in this afternoons post, so I'll have a brew then pop into the garage for a little bit of tinker time!

So the good news is that the part is spot on.



And I soon had it fitted, to find that the leak was cured. Yippeeee.

The tiddler started first kick, soon came off the choke and went to idle nicely. I left her running for a short time and I noticed a minor dripping from the case area of the oil pump. So I removed the oil pump cover and found a bit of residual liquid in there. Quickly dried it off and started the engine again (with the cover off) and I could see a very minor seepage, so it looks like there could be the need to dig a bit further and see if it's just a new water pump gasket that's needed. No time tonight so I could have a quick look before I go to work tomorrow (should the weather be kind and, if it's not then I'll wait until Sunday).

Anyone got any tips or pointers when it comes to this area/removal etc before I read the manual?
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The Cameraman



Joined: 22 Aug 2015
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Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2016 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Guys n Gals,

well as I'm on a late shift today, I was able to do a bit on Team Tiddler.

I drained the coolant off (which is the new waterless type) to find very little contamination but I'll replace it anyway.

I loosened off the oil pump and removed the water pump housing to find the gasket was well and truly mullered and looks like the cause of the water leak.



And here's the view from the engine side aspect.



The cover started to clean up OK with an old tooth brush, Jizer, then WD-40, before a brief surface rub down with a piece of 600 grade wet n dry, sprayed with WD-40, to remove all traces of the old gasket.

The engin e side has been sprayed with Jizer and the gadget remains left soaking, as I'm off to work for a late shift.

The good news is that the impeller is perfect and no sign of problems with the main seal.

Hopefully I'll have some time over the weekend to get it done.

I also noticed the carb appears to be leaking from the overflow, so I'm guessing the floats sticking a little, so I'll look at that as well.
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The Cameraman



Joined: 22 Aug 2015
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Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2016 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Guys n Gals,

well a bit of careful cleaning removed the remains of the gasket from the housing side, which looks much better now.



I've also cleaned up some of the engine case side and left it soaking until tomorrow so I can remove the remaining clag.
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The Cameraman



Joined: 22 Aug 2015
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Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 11:27 am    Post subject: On going restoration of my AR125 Reply with quote

Hi Guys n Gals,

so The soaking of the gasket remains worked wonders, allowing the removal of it all, with a plastic scraper and a little use of 600 grade wet n dry, with WD-40.

Here's a shot just before the final wipe down.



And here with the new gasket fitted (noting I had to trim a bit off at the top left as you can see).



Coolant refilled and all looked good.

I then decided to look at the carb and found it was leaking from the overflow, so I removed the carb, removed the float bowl (and fitted allen headed stainless replacement bolts) and removed the drain bolt. It was a little mucky, so cleaned it and polished it with Brasso, before putting it back in, rebuilt the carb, fitted it back on the bike and found that it was still leaking.

Removed it again, removed the float bowl, removed the floats, removed the float valve, cleaned both valve and the seat refitted it all again and still it leaked.

It leaks from three area's;

1, the overflow pipe that runs from the base of the carb.
2, if I tilt the carb to the left (a lot), it leaks from the left hand overflow.
3, if I tilt the carb to the right (a lot), it leaks from the right hand overflow.

Any suggestions from the AR clan?
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Howie



Joined: 18 Oct 2009
Posts: 471
Location: Kwaksville

PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi CM,

Sounds like you've done most of the checks I would have done but did you turn the carb upside down & blow through the fuel feed pipe?

If you did then you can almost rule out float valve & seating. Does the float have an adjustable 'tang' (I think that is what it's called?) & if so is the float set at the correct height?

Did you also check the float itself for leaks? Take it off, give it a shake & if there is fuel inside, you will need a new one.

Sorry if you've already tried these but other than checking fuel filters for splits & tank for rust, I can't think of anything else that would cause the carb to overflow.
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