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Classic Bike Trackdays

My SDR...
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Top-shaggy
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Joined: 05 Mar 2011
Posts: 1673
Location: Derbyshire

PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That SDR is absolutely gorgeous.... almost good enough to make me want a Yamaha... Giggity Cool
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andyw114
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Joined: 01 Jan 2014
Posts: 265
Location: Near Kidderminster

PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2017 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Love it.
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James P



Joined: 31 Mar 2013
Posts: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2017 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your comments everyone!

I went for a longer ride today (just over 200km) to carry on with running-in and try to get the carb jetted a bit better.
I have quite a range of jets but (in true fashion Rolling Eyes ) the size atomiser I need is one I haven't got! P2 works well enough, but could be a little lean, while P5 is slightly too rich. I'll have to obtain a P4 (and/or perhaps a P3 if available) and do more testing before deciding. Having said that, the bike was easily rideable with either atomiser fitted.

Cooling seems marginal - OK while moving along briskly, but the water temperature needle soon creeps up while in "gridlock" or slow-moving traffic. As I was nearing the end of my ride the sun went down, which seemed to give slightly lower temperatures. I'll defer consideration of any modifications to improve cooling (e.g. larger radiator, electric fan etc.) until I get a better idea of how consistent the existing set-up is.

I took this photo on Lenore Drive at Eastern Creek, near Sydney West Substation:


When I got back, I noticed some unburnt mixture leaking from the silencer joint. I had previously got my machinist to make this adaptor to join the DFR silencer to the Jackal pipe:

On dismantling, I found that I hadn't applied any sealer to the joint between the adaptor and silencer! Embarassed Luckily an easy fix...

Regards,
James
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James P



Joined: 31 Mar 2013
Posts: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2017 11:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it is of any use to anyone, here are the carb settings I have ended up with so far. The carb itself has been converted to TZR250 1KT Formula 3 specification and the air intake system uses a K&N filter, as described and pictured earlier.

Main jet 300
Power jet plugged
Pilot jet 25
Atomiser P4 (159-series)
Needle 5EJ48, clip in position 4
Throttle slide 0 (i.e. no cutaway, from TZR250 3XV)

I could probably still go down a size or two on the main jet, but I'll leave it where it is for the time being. The ideal throttle slide cutaway is probably somewhere between 0 and 1.5. I have tried both and prefer the 0, although either is usable. If I want to get any closer, I'll have to modify a 0 slide to 0.5 or 1.0.

Regards,
James
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James P



Joined: 31 Mar 2013
Posts: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 11:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For anyone wanting to fit stronger clutch springs, I have compiled some info which may be of interest.

I have compared three other genuine Yamaha springs to the standard SDR spring (all springs new) using an instrument normally used for checking valve springs. This gave an indication (in pounds) of the force required to compress the spring and I took readings just before each spring became coilbound.

a) 90501-20644 (Blue paint; standard SDR) Free length 32mm, Force 33lb.

b) 90501-20568 (Pink paint; DT200R 3ET) Free length 34mm, Force 38lb.

c) 90501-204A0 (No paint; DT230 4TP) Free length 32.5mm, Force 38lb.

d) 90501-20361 (Yellow paint; YZ80, TZ125, YZ125, IT175, RD250/350 etc.) Free length 36mm, Force 43lb.

The springs above all have the same outside diameter and are made using wire of the same diameter. At the time of writing, they are all still available from Yamaha.
As will be seen, the DT200 and DT230 springs required about the same force to compress, although the DT200 springs are slightly longer. I am using the pink DT200 springs in my SDR and clutch performance seems entirely satisfactory.

Regards,
James
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evster



Joined: 27 Feb 2018
Posts: 5
Location: NSW

PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just joined the forum to say well done on this fantastic thread of info on the SDR. I just bought one after seeing a red SDR parked on a street in Crows Nest about six months ago. It wasn't yours was it? I've been keeping an eye out to see if it re-appeared there so I could leave a note asking if I could purchase it, it looked fantastic!

Hope to learn more about the SDR and maybe even contribute something after I get it sorted.

I've been going through SDR200.com and will be picking up kits for a new top-end and engine mounts to start with.
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2TV owner



Joined: 22 Mar 2012
Posts: 142
Location: West Yorkshire

PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 11:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi James,

Great read on your SDR. just a shame we can't see the pictures!
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James P



Joined: 31 Mar 2013
Posts: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

evster wrote:
I just bought one after seeing a red SDR parked on a street in Crows Nest about six months ago. It wasn't yours was it?

No, not mine...I don't like to leave it parked on the street for too long! Still, its unusual to see one anywhere out & about. Let me know if you need any info or assistance with any aspect of your own project bike.


2TV owner wrote:
Hi James,

Great read on your SDR. just a shame we can't see the pictures!

Thanks! Have you tried one of the "fixes" mentioned here: http://diffrentstrokers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2340 ?? I have, and can now see all the Photobucket images again.


Regards,
James
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steezin_and_wheezin



Joined: 07 Jul 2015
Posts: 68
Location: Radford, VA(USA)

PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sub'ing to read over everything when I get some down time, love the attention to detail. Very well documented and organized project thread. Great work, the SDR came out looking fantastic!! I wish I could find one of these goobers over here in the states
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2TV owner



Joined: 22 Mar 2012
Posts: 142
Location: West Yorkshire

PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have now added the chrome extension and the pictures are great! I need more info on the 3rd engine mounting that you are doing. I have also looked at the Tosh-Tec ones and had thought about making one up. Any info you have on this would be greatly appreciated.
I managed to track down 2 NOS rear engine mountings some years back and fitted them in mine when i rebuilt the motor a couple of years ago. The bush also fitted a quad if i remember correctly and a guy here in the uk had one.
I also ordered one of the 'shim' rubber spacers from sdr200.com to fit at the same time. As for the fronts i replaced the bushes which helped massively.
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James P



Joined: 31 Mar 2013
Posts: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2018 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a sketch with dimensions of the "third" engine mount kit I made up. If this is of interest to anyone, please let me have your e-mail address by PM and I'll scan the sketch and send it.

Concerning the upper rear engine mounting bushes; I have so far been unable to discover the origin of the "Silentbloc" bushes supplied by SDR200.com as part of its replacement kit. However, I have found Yamaha Part No.1YW-22216-00 (a rear shock absorber bush I think) which is very similar and will work with a small modification. In similar manner to the SDR200.com kit, it is necessary to manufacture a special centre spacer for use with the 1YW bushes. Again, I have a sketch with dimensions which I can send on request.
These 1YW bushes and also those supplied with the SDR200.com kit are a fair bit stiffer than the original SDR bushes. It is therefore debatable whether the metal/rubber "shim" is required at all (I did read something on a Japanese web-site which advised against using the metal/rubber shim with the SDR200.com kit). I made some special plastic shims (as mentioned in my info and shown in the associated photos), but am wondering whether they are overkill... Confused

Regards,
James
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evster



Joined: 27 Feb 2018
Posts: 5
Location: NSW

PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2018 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As a brief update, my SDR failed its NSW compliance certificate (required before being registered for road use) as the braided brake lines didn't have a brand or identifying marks on it so couldn't be verified as being compliant with SAE/DOT standards, and the brake fluid reservoir text (use DOT4, clean filler cap) was in Japanese.

So now I'm waiting for new brake fluid reservoir covers with english text and new brake lines from HEL to ensure I'm compliant with Australian Design Rules. Disappointing as I'm keen to get the bike on the road and ridden. At least the ride to the engineer's place was pleasant.

Consolation prize is a whole lot of parts from SDR200.com arrived (engine rebuild kit and new engine mounts as a precaution).

Once the bike is registered I will be getting some of the cosmetics tidied up and the bike setup properly for my weight etc.
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James P



Joined: 31 Mar 2013
Posts: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 1:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

James P wrote:
If it is of any use to anyone, here are the carb settings I have ended up with so far. The carb itself has been converted to TZR250 1KT Formula 3 specification and the air intake system uses a K&N filter, as described and pictured earlier.

Main jet 300
Power jet plugged
Pilot jet 25
Atomiser P4 (159-series)
Needle 5EJ48, clip in position 4
Throttle slide 0 (i.e. no cutaway, from TZR250 3XV)

I could probably still go down a size or two on the main jet, but I'll leave it where it is for the time being. The ideal throttle slide cutaway is probably somewhere between 0 and 1.5. I have tried both and prefer the 0, although either is usable. If I want to get any closer, I'll have to modify a 0 slide to 0.5 or 1.0.


I decided that the jetting was a little rich in the quarter to three-quarter throttle range with the settings listed above, so have changed the needle clip to position 3. This made a noticeable improvement and response was a lot crisper. EGT has increased slightly as a result, but I think jetting is still a little on the rich side. If I feel so inclined, I may try a P3 atomiser.

Regards,
James
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mboddy



Joined: 26 Jun 2009
Posts: 17
Location: Canberra, Australia

PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

P3 ? Don't you mean P2 James?
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James P



Joined: 31 Mar 2013
Posts: 109
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2018 1:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mboddy wrote:
P3 ? Don't you mean P2 James?


No Mark - some Mikuni atomisers are available in "odd" sizes. Luckily the 159-series atomiser is quite popular, so some of the odd sizes are catered for. I'm not sure whether all odd sizes are available though.

Regards,
James
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